Via dei Camini Gilberti is the most classic ascent of the entire group and extends on the southern face of Creton di Culzei in view of the De Gasperi Lodge. It is a classic ascent with an approach to the final, more vertical part, along a series of chimneys and cracks in the large lower basin.
ACCESS
From the Rifugio de Gasperi, follow the CAI Trail 232 up to the central grassy ridge of the valley near the walls that enclose it towards the northwest. On the right (look for a small larch) a track leads downhill towards a secondary channel that must be climbed over detrital ground up to the upper saddle with a boulder in the center. It is located about 1.15h from the lodge.
DESCENT
Following the normal road to Creton di Culzei through the Forca dell’Alpino in 1.45h.
In the sketch the parts of the route visible from the refuge are shown in red, while those not visible are shown in yellow.
ASCENT
From the saddle go up to the left for about thirty meters and, in view of the rest stop, continue to the right (alternating stretches more leaning against canals and cracks) aiming at the deep chimney that descends from the top. This first section of six lengths of rope goes up the entire lower basin leading to the heart of the wall below the most vertical section (third degree maximum level of difficulty). Once you reach the base of the right chimney (stops equipped with bolts at regular distances) you can then go up for 150 m on very compact rock (consistent fourth-level difficulty). There are numerous passing nails. The last length, after exiting the chimney, leads directly to the top through easy rocks.
33020 Prato Carnico, UD
Simone Gogano: +39 366 1745882
info@rifdegasperi.it, simone.gonano@pec.it, www.rifdegasperi.it
Part. IVA. 02986600308
Creton di Culzei – Normal Route
